APRIL 23, 2008

A couple of weeks ago, Randy told me that we'd been invited to spend a weekend with an engineer, Sean (a Chinese fellow) and his family back in Sean's hometown called Lake of 1000 Islands (or Qian Dao in Chinese). Originally, it was my understanding that Qian Dao was just an hour or so beyond Suzhou where our good friends Rich and Magali reside, so a plan was devised to include spending Friday night at their place, then to continue on to Qian Dao on Saturday morning where we were to be entertained by Sean and his folks for the remainder of the weekend. I mentioned in the previous post that Alan is here from Scotland working for a few weeks, so he was cheerfully included in the plan, as well as Lifeng (ADS plant manager), his wife, son, and Lifeng's parents who reside with them in Suzhou.

Randy sent the driver to retrieve me from the apartment Friday afternoon and he squired me away to ADS where we were to have Sean give us a ride to Suzhou. Sean lives in an apartment in Suzhou during the week, and travels back to his hometown on the weekends. We did indeed meet with Rich and Magali, and enjoyed a tasty and lively evening with a group of their Spanish-speaking friends at TGI Friday's (yes, they have those here as well). I am learning that it matters not what language people are speaking, but what really matters is their willingness to open their hearts and minds to having a good time regardless of the nationality. You really CAN have a wonderful time without understanding each word being spoken in the room, and this was, once again, proven in Suzhou at Friday's with Rich, Magali, and our new Hispanic friends. Thanks, Rich and Magali!

Sean picked us up about 7:30 Saturday morning in a rental van after a very generous breakfast of pancakes, bacon, and fruit served up by Magali and Rich. After Randy, Alan, and I were picked up, we went to fetch Lifeng's folks. Lifeng and his wife and son were to follow a bit later. So we were off toward Lake of 1000 Islands. It threatened rain along the way, but blossomed into a beautiful sunny day the closer we neared our destination.

It seems I did not understand the distance we were to travel that day. At some point, someone asked Sean how far we were to drive. He replied that it would take about 3 1/2 hours! I settled in for the ride, and alternately napped and enjoyed the scenery which was becoming more and more mountainous as we progressed. Soon we could see the horizontal striations of the mountainsides where tea is grown. I'd seen photos of this in the past, but it is definitely much more beautiful to witness in person!

Lake of 1000 Islands is a man-made reservoir that, until a few years ago, was a river which was dammed in order to create this lake (I assume for purposes of generating electricity, but the Chinese have creatively realized the potential of this area for generating income from tourism as well). It was very clear that they are on the initial stages of building a beautiful resort community in this relatively small city (population around 450,000). There are quite a number of lovely hotels, apartments, and condos either built or in the process, and the city has developed lovely parks with gorgeous lighting and fountains which produce a Las Vegas-type show at night. Quite impressive!

We picked up Sean's parents and continued to a quite remote restaurant for lunch. The restaurant was actually a log cabin structure that floated in the lake beyond a newly built dock system. We could see the numerous varieties of fish swimming in the confines of a series of netting ponds awaiting their demise in order to be served as someone's next meal. Lunch was presented on a large, open, wooden deck patio, and the surrounding vicinity was not unlike what we Michiganders would call "up north" in appearance and style. Coming from the loud, crowded, ever bustling Shanghai, we delighted in the calm and silence of the area. The sky was blue, the air was clean, the water was almost crystal clear, and the atmosphere almost serene .... heaven!!

Lunch was served Chinese style on a lazy susan in the middle of a large circular table. We sat on small wooden stools and were served tea immediately. This area is quite famous for their tea agriculture, but as is the case everywhere in China, tea is constant for every meal. Sean's parents were totally hospitable and entertaining. As is customary, after the beer was poured for everyone, the toasts commenced. Everyone stood, a toast was offered, and all would drink. Luckily for me, the glasses were quite small (juice glass size) so I didn't have much trouble keeping up. Most of the dishes included some kind of seafood as the chefs of this area pride themselves in being able to prepare the very freshest in fish, shellfish, and crustaceans. Much of what was served was familiar to us although we needed instruction on how to consume the little snail-like shells served in a steaming pot of spicy broth. I think we served as good entertainment to the Chinese who are all expert when it comes to picking up any form of tasty morsel with their chopsticks, placing it in their mouths, working the meat from the bone or out of the shell, then spitting the waste onto their plates, all without ever touching their food with their fingers. Randy is getting pretty good at this as he is served the boxed Chinese lunch every day at work, but I require a bit more practice. But I do have to admit that we ate some excellent seafood while we were in Qian Dao.

After lunch, we were whisked away to the shoreline. There was every manner of boat and ferry available on the lake. We were placed inside a smaller, enclosed boat which I commented to Randy looked like a converted 30' Bayliner (you boaters will know what I'm taking about). Mostly aluminum with a hatch in the front ... holds about a dozen people. Among the 1000+ islands on the lake (yes, there ARE over 1000 islands), about 13 of them have been developed to include various indigenous tourist sites and activities. It is definitely becoming popular among the locals because the lake was FULL of various sized ferries, and the islands were teeming with activity. Some of the larger ferries seem to have luxury accommodations including overstuffed sofas, vases full of flowers, and fully equipped open air kitchen areas on the aft deck on which to prepare meals for hungry travellers. We were the only Westerners we saw the entire weekend, save for one other, so I believe this area is somewhat undiscovered on the expat level.

The first island we visited was a steep, craggy, mountain developed strictly for the purpose of scaling it for a fantastic view of the lake area. There was an enclosed tram system in place for those not wanting to ascend the rock staircase on foot (for a cost), but our hosts indicated that we were setting off as pedestrians, not riders. This was fine with me as we'd been warned against roller coasters and amusement park rides in China as they seem to not be maintained very well, and I wasn't keen on meeting my demise by falling from the skies in a Chinese mountain tram! We began our ascent adventurously and intrepidly like any untested, middle aged fools. Here and there, a lookout presented itself for photo opportunities. It soon became obvious that our little hike in the woods was becoming a major aerobic workout!! It wasn't long before we were a little more than red-faced and panting like a woman in the final stages of childbirth!!!! Randy asked Sean how many steps to the top. He replied, "Around 200." As is common in the translation here, hundred and thousands often get mixed up, and as we were soon to find out, it was AT LEAST 2,000 (Sean said, "Oh, yeah. That's what I meant," as we wondered who among us remembered CPR). OK, I survived it, so I'll quit whining.

I will say, however, that I believe I have now seen what may be some of the most beautiful landscapes (or "lakescapes") in China. The picturesque vistas were absolutely breathtaking and Randy didn't quit taking photos the entire time we were there. It was, without a doubt, worth the expended energy!

It was explained to us that there are still large villages existing under the water which were flooded when the Chinese created this reservoir, and in fact, they are in the process of creating some kind of submarine system whereby visitors can be submerged to take a look at these newly created "Atlantises!" Of course, it's hard not to think about the millions of folks who were displaced when this project was undertaken. Seems to be somewhat commonplace here to remove entire villages in order to create these situations (you have probably heard about the Three Rivers Gorges Dam, the largest in the world. I think 150 million people have been displaced as a result of that dam). But the story of the creation of Lake of 1000 Islands was told to us with great national pride, and of course, who knows? Maybe most of these folks are better off which is what I always hope. Certainly, Sean's folks are doing fine. His mother works for the government, and his father is a high school mathematics teacher. It was obvious that they are very proud of Sean and had put a lot of effort into planning this weekend for Sean's superiors and their families.

I'm not sure if it was a plan, or the fact that some of us looked like we might suffer cardiac arrest, but it was decided that we'd take the tram down the mountainside back to the ferry. I swallowed my uncertainty about safety and stepped aboard, concentrating on the incredible scenery all around us. We descended with no problems.

We boated to another island which had more stone steps and some beautiful spots for hiking that included a small, swinging bridge (a la Indiana Jones), waterfalls, and even an area used to demonstrate the grain milling process (and of course brought to mind our beloved Grindstone City). We all photographed one another in various couplings and assorted groups, and took LOTS of scenery shots. I'm sure it did us a world of good to do some deep breathing in a place that has yet to see the haze of air pollution. That blue sky sure looked wonderful, and the absence of pollution and other various smells seemed really great!

Upon our return, Lifeng, wife, son, and a friend of the wife were waiting on the shore waving a warm welcome. I never learned Lifeng's wife's name nor that of her friend (I don't believe either speak English), but the son (4 years old) prefers to be called James Bond. James Bond is aptly named as he is smart, full of energy, very brave, and meets all situations HEAD ON!! We told Lifeng that back in the states, we'd say that his son was "all boy!!" It took both parents, grandparents, and the friend to keep control at times. JB is a cute, young man who has his family tied right around his little finger. Yep, they have their hands full. I had to stifle a smile .... been there, did that!!

Our hotel was a large, bright red and gold, VERY Chinese looking arrangement of buildings built right on the water. The various buildings were connected by interlocking plastic blocks that created decks, docks, and patios as necessary that also floated on the water. Those blocks even enclosed the "pool" area created by cool, clean lake water. Rentals of paddle boats, jet skis, and various other water sports were available, and of course, James Bond needed a jet ski ride which was provided. Our rooms were sparsely appointed, but clean and functional. Each room had it's own private deck over the water, and standing upon that deck put thoughts of the Great Lakes into our heads. It was fairly warm with a much welcomed light breeze (we were still a bit heated up from our mountain climbing) ruffling the sheer curtains.

Sean knocked to alert us that it was time for dinner and we were escorted to a lovely, private dining room in the main building of the resort which was rocked occasionally by the movement of the water while we ate. Dinner was again, Chinese style, with a lovely assortment of fresh seafood again, along with many other local delicacies. I mentioned in a previous post eating ants at a holiday dinner. This meal included a very thin, light tortilla-type, crisp snack that was garnished with fried ants. VERY good!! Of course, the tea and beer started flowing immediately, and the aforementioned toasting began.

After dinner, we went into town to watch a beautiful dancing fountain and light show set to music. The large park area was full of folks doing a sort of line dancing. It was incredible to watch! There must have been around 400 people all doing this same dance. Sean commented that this is how many people in this community entertain themselves (well, in Shanghai too, as we've seen dancing in most of the parks of this city after dark). We shopped a bit in some of the local stores and purchased a few items, but exhaustion soon overcame us, and we decided to call it a night.

The next day, we set out for more 1000 Island Lake adventures after a nice breakfast buffet. We again embarked on a boat ride upon the enclosed ferry to several other islands. We didn't climb quite as much or as often. Maybe our hosts feared for our health because the first island included a ski-lift style transport instead of a walking hike. Again, beautiful views and vistas awaited us at the top, and numerous photos were taken. One of the islands included another swinging bridge but this one was MUCH larger (actually it was a set of TWO bridges). I wasn't as keen on crossing as the others seemed to be, but I put on my game face. Of course, we were probably halfway across or more when several of the teen members of fellow bridgecrossers decided this was "Scare the S**T out of the Laowai" day. I hung on for dear life and thanked my lucky stars that beer wasn't part of the Chinese breakfast routine as the bridge swayed to and fro. "Yes," I told Randy, "it's all fun and games until somebody gets hurt!!" knowing full well that I sounded TOO much like a mother.

The next island visited was a bird sanctuary which was quite interesting. They do like their birds here in China as the zoo was FULL of various types of peacocks, ostriches, ducks, pheasants, chickens, gulls, even pelicans. This was similar to the zoo on a smaller scale. On the way off Bird Island, we passed over docks that had netted pond areas with large varieties of goldfish in them. We were given fish food which created quite a frenzy when tossed into the pond. Some of these fish were so excited to get a bite that they climbed out of the water on the backs of the other fish to get to the food!

My favorite island visited over the weekend was Monkey Island. It is indeed inhabited by wild monkeys (around 800 we were told). The monkeys are somewhat tame as they have been clearly fed by humans, so you could walk straight up to many of them. But it was clear that one must be somewhat wary as we witnessed what may have been a young mother rushing aggressively toward some children in order to scare them off. There are several "monkey keepers" on hand though to prevent any incidents. I could have stayed there all day watching the monkeys play, eat, swing from tree to tree, scurry up and down, and even nap stretched out along tree branches. The babies were just the cutest things, and they rough-housed just like little kids, screeching at one another in frustration when they didn't get their way (just like human kids do). Very fun and incredibly interesting!! Apparently, during the hot weather, it is common to see the monkeys going for a cooling swim. Sean informed us that there are monkeys on some of the other islands and, at times, the monkeys will swim to each other's islands and actually have territorial wars (yep, just like humans).

Sometime during the morning, it started to rain. The crowds were quite thick on the islands, and when the umbrellas started opening, it really made for a riotous madhouse. We were quite relieved when Sean announced that we'd now go for lunch before heading back to Shanghai. Lunch was in a very nice restaurant in Qian Dao where, it was explained to us, that Premier Hu eats when he visits the area, and a certain chef always prepares his food (and also where I utilized the only non-squat toilet I'd seen all weekend). And apparently that chef was preparing OUR food as well. We were certainly getting the star treatment. Well no surprise, the meal was, in my opinion, the most excellent of the weekend. Again, the fresh fish and seafood, along with numerous local vegetables (the eggplant dish was outstanding), topped off with fresh watermelon for dessert. I begged off on the offer of beer this time, but went for a glass of red bean juice instead which is literally the juice squeezed from red beans (like kidney beans) and served hot. Tasty, a little thick, but not an objectionable concoction. I'm sure it's a very healthy beverage.

We expressed our thanks, gave hugs and good-byes to Sean's family in a light rain before leaving Qian Dao. Sean's mother presented each of us with a gift of a tin full of the local tea ..... lovely!! Lifeng suggested that Sean drive the three us of back to Shanghai in his vehicle (a newer Toyota Camry) so we had a pretty nice ride back to the city, while he drove the remainder of his entourage (including James Bond) in the van in which we'd arrived to Qian Dao. Exhausted, but thoroughly entertained and full of wonderful culinary delights, we commenced our 4 hour ride back to Shanghai.

I'd like to go on the record to say that Randy and I will be eternally grateful to Sean's parents (wish I knew their names) for thinking to host such a marvelous and interesting adventure, and including us in it! We have some incredible photos, but more than that, we have made some great friends and memories which will last a lifetime. To Sean's mama and baba: "Xie xie ni hen duo, women de pengyou!!!"