Xian Terra Cotta Warriors
Happy Cinco de Mayo to all my tequila swilling friends and family (as I write this, it is still May 5 in the states)!! And remember, no drinking and driving. Or anything else that requires more coordination than sitting on the toilet. OK, enough preaching.
Before I jump into the details of our recent trip to Xi'an, I wanted to pass along an amusing bit of Chinglish that came our way last week. We encounter these little nuggets here and there, and usually I don't remember to pass them along. Last Thursday, Randy came home from work with a gift given to each of the staff at ADS .... a bug lamp. When Randy called me to say he was bringing this home, I asked if it was the kind that made that annoying zapping noise as it "eats" the little critters. He said no, it was more of a lamp/fan device (with a cute little hood on it with ears like a cat) that attracts bugs and then the fan sort of sucks them in where they can't escape. Those Chinese are SO clever .... they think of everything (just ASK them)! Anyway, Randy showed me the lamp with the green cat ears when he got home and then handed me the note that Bonnie had written and attached to the box so that we'd understand the intended use of the device. It read "This lamp will make you far way from flies and mosquitoes." We had to laugh imagining that we'd on turn this thing and be magically transported somewhere completely devoid of annoying flying nuisances!!! Well, it was very sweet of her to explain it to us because we'd have probably thought it was just a lovely night light. Now we know we'll need to clean out dead insects every so often.
We set out very early Friday morning for the airport for our trip to Xi'an. The flight was due to depart at 8:15 AM and it takes an hour (sometimes more) to get there via the subway and Maglev which is the cheapest (and often fastest) way to get there. We don't mind utilizing this route when there is minimal luggage involved and being this was a weekend excursion, we'd managed to pack carry-on sized bags. We were were out of our apartment by 6:00 AM, a rather nice time to travel in this city as most everyone is still seeing to their morning ablutions before traveling to jobs in the morning rush.
The airport and flight were timely and painless. We'd steeled ourselves for long lines and delays as this was a holiday weekend in China and, as is the case stateside, a busy weekend for traveling. We were also traveling to one of the largest tourist destinations in China. Xi'an was the original capital of China before it was changed to Peking (now called Beijing), and as these are national celebrations that took place this past weekend, the city was being inundated with government big wigs and officials taking part in national observances of the holiday. But I have to say that none of this seemed to affect our enjoyment of the tour or sightseeing the entire weekend. Not that there weren't some crowds but everything was orderly and the weather was outstanding (sunny and 80's), so everyone's disposition was pretty pleasant and patient.
Our tour guide, Donna, and our driver, Michael, who had been procured by our traveling companions, Larry and Therese, were waiting with smiles for us at the gate in Xi'an holding a sign upon which were written our names. Introductions were made and we were off for the city, about an hour's drive. Donna, who is certainly knowledgeable of Xi'an history, took a lot of time giving us general information about the city of Xi'an, the city wall and moat structures, and some of the more historic sites we'd be visiting over the weekend. After we checked into the lovely Sofitel Hotel, we set off to begin our weekend adventures of Xi'an.
Our first destination was the City Wall of Xi'an. The City Wall is the only completely restored city wall in China. Most (if not all) of the others have fallen by the wayside in deterioration or have been torn down in favor of more modern structures (Nanjing still has retained an impressive looking gateway but the actual wall is gone). But the City Wall and the four gates (one facing each direction) have been carefully restored in Xi'an, and it definitely is a sight to behold. The structure encompasses a 50 kilometer area and was built high enough that an archer would have a tough time shooting an arrow over it. There are parapets all along the outside wall with large enough notches that defenders could shoot through while still being somewhat protected. Here and there, cannons were still in place for effect. The moat (which at this point is more of a stagnant creek) is at an amazing 80 foot depth and would certainly have daunted even the most determined of enemies. Oriental pagodas dotted the landscape periodically along the wall marking the various areas where military strategy would have been determined and look-outs could be posted.
There were rental facilities available for bikes or golf cart type conveyances available but most tourists seemed to prefer strolling the top of the wall on foot. The city had long ago outgrown the walls and, as such, the area inside the walls is now known as City Center. I will say that while the walls and gates are lovely with great arching mouths that can accommodate several lanes of traffic each way, I do believe the entire wall system is a bit of a traffic jammer as the only route into or out of the City Center (where the majority of the action of the city is located) is through these gates. It's beautiful and historic, and certainly adds character to the city, but we often found ourselves in completely stopped traffic as a result of these gates being the only routes available for our various destinations.
The next stop was the Big Goose Pagoda which is a very large (and much visited) Buddhist Temple within the City Center area. The pagoda is positioned within the temple grounds along with the other temple buildings each representing an area in which a particular Buddha can be honored and worshipped. I have to say that this is without a doubt the most magnificent of the temples I have visited to date in China. The Buddha areas were beautiful, clean, and ornate, and also large enough to accommodate the bigger crowds that gathered here for worship and meditation. The highlight of this temple (as least for me) was a room that was surrounded on three sides by beautiful carved jade inlaid walls. The varying colors of greens, pinks, reds, yellows, orange, and white were vivid and striking, and the carving was fine, detailed, and proportionate. We took a lot of photos, and I could've stood there all day examining the beautiful ladies, cherubs, Buddhas, and various landscapes that covered the walls of this particular temple area. Magnificent!! Also, the temple area was surrounded by gorgeous and meticulously cared for garden areas which made for a very pleasant sight seeing event. In spite of the rather crowded conditions, we thoroughly enjoyed strolling the Big Goose Pagoda area.
After the Big Goose Pagoda, we were on to the Small Goose Pagoda. This was a less fantastic experience but worthwhile nonetheless. The Small Goose Pagoda is in some disrepair as the edges and top are crumbling. Apparently, this particular pagoda is considered magical due to the fact that some years ago, it was split in half from top to bottom during an earthquake, and then many years later, was reportedly repaired in the same manner. I'm sure this explains the rather disheveled appearance of the pagoda, and I'm a bit skeptical of the earthquake tale (as least the repair part of the tale), but it does make for a good story. The grounds of the Small Goose Pagoda also included some beautiful gardens, statuary, and the peonies were in glorious bloom making for some very fragrant aromas.
After fighting traffic and a few good sized crowds, we were ready for a break and a quick change of clothes in preparation for the evening's activities. We had a reservation for the Tang Dynasty Show and Dumpling Buffet. This experience had come highly recommended so we did not want to miss it. Donna informed us that she had gone to the trouble to ensure our reservation and had managed to acquire very special seats for us. The theater that houses the Tang Dynasty Show is an older Chinese theater but, in my opinion, made for a more authentic experience. The tiered floor area held round tables of 12 on the main floor just in front of the elaborately decorated stage, with the second, slightly raised, level of tables which held 4 or 8 guests. We sat in the front row of the second level directly in front of the center of the stage ..... a perfect view!! Behind us was a balcony of patrons who were there only to view the show but were not partaking of the buffet.
The dumpling buffet consisted of a meal of cold appetizers prior to the serving of 16 different steamed, boiled, and fried dumplings. And we could order as many of the boiled dumplings (the least difficult to prepare) as we wanted. The tables were already laden with the various cold items that we have had with most Chinese meals ... chicken, cucumbers, various cooked chilled greens, and beverages of beer, rice wine, and sodas were offered immediately. Soon the dumplings started arriving to our table, and an elegantly dressed Chinese woman with a very tall headdress came onto the stage to entertain us by plucking a giant Chinese guitar that rested on a stand across her lap. The music was traditional Chinese which perfectly fit the occasion and the musician glanced up demurely and smiled at us periodically.
We ate dumplings filled with corn, celery, chicken, pork, beans, and spinach, and also various combinations of the above. We ate sweet dumplings and savory dumplings, some steamed, some fried, and finally the boiled ones arrived. Dumplings can be eaten with soy, vinegar, or chili oil (or any combination of those). The revue-style show started as the last of the dumplings and the hot pot soup arrived (with teeny-tiny little dumplings for good luck).
The show was emcee'd by a man and a woman dressed in elegant and colorful Chinese finery. The man announced first in strong and animated Mandarin, while the woman followed in calm, dulcet English both commencing and ending their announcements with deep bows. The 10 acts that followed were of various Oriental themes, instrumental pieces of authentic ancient Chinese music with beautiful Chinese landscapes and buildings as set backgrounds with stunning and frequent changes of lighting, as well as lively dances, and Oriental singing. There were gorgeous ballet type dances of Chinese girls with sleeves that were 8 feet long that made beautiful patterns as they twirled and waved their arms in the air. There was a man that made strange and wonderful warbling noises (I honestly do not know if he was whistling or singing but they were definitely some of the most unusual noises I've ever heard made by a human being) almost like a bird twittering and singing. Quite the ham, he made a huge hit with the audience. There was loud drumming and marching of soldiers holding long poles with red lanterns hanging from them. The program was quite delightful and again, we took many photos.
As planned, we arose early Saturday morning for breakfast in order to get ahead of the crowds for our viewing of the Terra Cotta Warriors. The drive to the dig area was almost an hour long, and it was interesting to see another side of Xi'an and the surrounding countryside. We stopped at an area prior to the archaeological digs to visit an area where they make, among other things, various sizes of terra cotta warriors and horses. We were able to view the process (which is basically fill two halves of a mold with clay and put them together, let dry, bake in a kiln, paint), stroll through shelves of the finished products along with other terra cotta figures, Chinese furniture, and artwork. If I were really into Chinese style design (which I'm not although I can certainly appreciate the beauty of it), I could really load up on furniture and artwork. There were some gorgeous pieces at this place. Just outside the entrance were a couple of life size metal warriors with their heads removed so that we could stand behind them and have our photos taken as warriors. Fun!
The dig areas are very well developed open air, covered buildings that have railings all around the outside edges for elevated viewing. Prior to looking at the digs, we opted to watch the 360 degree screen movie highlighting the discovery of the Terra Cotta Warriors, as well as the history of their designer and commissioner, the first Emperor of the Qin Dynasty. It is for his tomb the warriors stand as protectors and sentinels. It was recommended to us that we first view the movie as it explains exactly that which we were about to view next.
The history in a nutshell is this: Emperor QinShiHuang ordered the construction of the tomb and armed terra cotta warriors (along with horses and chariots) about 200 BC in order that his soul be protected from any evil (real or perceived) in the afterlife. It is not exactly known how many of these pits and warriors actually exist. It apparently could be dozens of pits in an area approximately 50 kilometers square but this is as yet has not been determined. A farmer digging a well for water in 1974 discovered terra cotta pieces and bronze fragments which were later determined to have historical significance (apparently at first, they were smashing and discarding them!). The area that is currently being excavated and developed is about 20 hectares which includes 3 ongoing digging sites ... pits 1, 2, & 3. We purchased a picture book which has a lot of pertinent information about the site that was autographed for us by the only living man who discovered the significance of the site.
Well, the only way I can describe the sight of these immense pits lined with row upon row of warriors all facing east is awe inspiring!!! One is hard pressed to imagine the manpower and labor that went into the construction of this, the largest tomb known to man. Unfortunately, most of the warriors, horses, and chariots are in pieces as the tomb fell into enemy hands and was all but destroyed and burned several years after it's completion. They can apparently ascertain by the layer of ash that the combustible parts (wooden spears and wagon wheels) may have smoldered for years. So the process of finding each piece and putting it all back together is very slow and painstaking work making the witnessing of the dig sites all the more impressive. Some of the warriors are pieced together with original pieces, some are all or partially recreated in order to achieve the original appearance.
We spent several hours at the dig site viewing each pit, mostly with our jaws agape with wonder, shooting photo after photo. It is incredible that someone even conceived of this endeavor, but to have actually accomplished it is nothing short of miraculous!! The actual tomb of the emperor is many kilometers to the very western edge of the mausoleum area as all enemy attacks would come from the east (in those days .... better luck to attack from the same direction from whence the sun rises), and we were not able to view the resting place of the emperor.
One interesting fact is that pit number 2 was initially excavated and then re-covered as it has been discovered that exposing the terra cotta pieces to the air causes them to commence deteriorating immediately. As they are still attempting to develop a process for preserving them, it was decided that they would simply cover them back up until such a process is perfected. After all, they know now where they are. It's simply a matter of carefully digging them up again. But the mounds are well marked and distinctive. It seems they are quite organized in their processes of recovery of the terra cotta army.
Well, I have to say that the highlight of our Chinese adventure to date has been the viewing of the Terra Cotta Army of the Qin Dynasty. I have been fascinated by the story since seeing it on TV (National Geographic or Discovery, something like that) and could scarcely take it all in once we were able to view it in person. Simply incredible!!!
We took some time later that day to unwind with a rousing game of Euchre with Larry and Therese, sipped a few drinks, and consumed a mediocre dinner buffet at the hotel. After dinner, it was decided that we still had enough energy to take a walk in the city streets of Xi'an to view the Bell Tower, the Drum Tower, and the Muslim street. The Bell and Drum Towers were impressively lit large Chinese pagodas which could be climbed (we didn't), but photos were taken. More impressive, however, was the brightly lit Muslim street which was jammed with people looking to purchase various street foods and treats, and handmade souvenirs being hawked by the numerous Muslim residents of Xi'an. It was a raucous, Mardi Gras-type atmosphere, and it was hard to not get caught up in the gaiety of it. We were full of our buffet dinner so didn't partake of any of the goodies (although the freshly roasted walnuts, and dried figs and dates DID look appealing) but did get quite a few photos. There is apparently a very large and impressive Muslim mosque in the block adjacent to this street but we did not have the opportunity to view it.
The remainder of our weekend was spent leisurely playing cards or enjoying meals with Larry and Therese who proved to be excellent traveling companions. We arrived back in Shanghai Sunday evening in time for a lovely Thai meal at Simply Thai where they were celebrating Cinco de Mayo by having their favorite items on the menu for 5 rmb (about 80 cents USD) ... so we ate well on the cheap.
No big adventure is forthcoming on the calendar at this time. We will be preparing soon to head over the pond to the US of A for a much needed break and visit with friends and family, as well as attend and honor our youngest children, Kelli and Jake, as they graduate high school. But I promise to check in with any noteworthy items. Until then, tsai chien!
Before I jump into the details of our recent trip to Xi'an, I wanted to pass along an amusing bit of Chinglish that came our way last week. We encounter these little nuggets here and there, and usually I don't remember to pass them along. Last Thursday, Randy came home from work with a gift given to each of the staff at ADS .... a bug lamp. When Randy called me to say he was bringing this home, I asked if it was the kind that made that annoying zapping noise as it "eats" the little critters. He said no, it was more of a lamp/fan device (with a cute little hood on it with ears like a cat) that attracts bugs and then the fan sort of sucks them in where they can't escape. Those Chinese are SO clever .... they think of everything (just ASK them)! Anyway, Randy showed me the lamp with the green cat ears when he got home and then handed me the note that Bonnie had written and attached to the box so that we'd understand the intended use of the device. It read "This lamp will make you far way from flies and mosquitoes." We had to laugh imagining that we'd on turn this thing and be magically transported somewhere completely devoid of annoying flying nuisances!!! Well, it was very sweet of her to explain it to us because we'd have probably thought it was just a lovely night light. Now we know we'll need to clean out dead insects every so often.
We set out very early Friday morning for the airport for our trip to Xi'an. The flight was due to depart at 8:15 AM and it takes an hour (sometimes more) to get there via the subway and Maglev which is the cheapest (and often fastest) way to get there. We don't mind utilizing this route when there is minimal luggage involved and being this was a weekend excursion, we'd managed to pack carry-on sized bags. We were were out of our apartment by 6:00 AM, a rather nice time to travel in this city as most everyone is still seeing to their morning ablutions before traveling to jobs in the morning rush.
The airport and flight were timely and painless. We'd steeled ourselves for long lines and delays as this was a holiday weekend in China and, as is the case stateside, a busy weekend for traveling. We were also traveling to one of the largest tourist destinations in China. Xi'an was the original capital of China before it was changed to Peking (now called Beijing), and as these are national celebrations that took place this past weekend, the city was being inundated with government big wigs and officials taking part in national observances of the holiday. But I have to say that none of this seemed to affect our enjoyment of the tour or sightseeing the entire weekend. Not that there weren't some crowds but everything was orderly and the weather was outstanding (sunny and 80's), so everyone's disposition was pretty pleasant and patient.
Our tour guide, Donna, and our driver, Michael, who had been procured by our traveling companions, Larry and Therese, were waiting with smiles for us at the gate in Xi'an holding a sign upon which were written our names. Introductions were made and we were off for the city, about an hour's drive. Donna, who is certainly knowledgeable of Xi'an history, took a lot of time giving us general information about the city of Xi'an, the city wall and moat structures, and some of the more historic sites we'd be visiting over the weekend. After we checked into the lovely Sofitel Hotel, we set off to begin our weekend adventures of Xi'an.
Our first destination was the City Wall of Xi'an. The City Wall is the only completely restored city wall in China. Most (if not all) of the others have fallen by the wayside in deterioration or have been torn down in favor of more modern structures (Nanjing still has retained an impressive looking gateway but the actual wall is gone). But the City Wall and the four gates (one facing each direction) have been carefully restored in Xi'an, and it definitely is a sight to behold. The structure encompasses a 50 kilometer area and was built high enough that an archer would have a tough time shooting an arrow over it. There are parapets all along the outside wall with large enough notches that defenders could shoot through while still being somewhat protected. Here and there, cannons were still in place for effect. The moat (which at this point is more of a stagnant creek) is at an amazing 80 foot depth and would certainly have daunted even the most determined of enemies. Oriental pagodas dotted the landscape periodically along the wall marking the various areas where military strategy would have been determined and look-outs could be posted.
There were rental facilities available for bikes or golf cart type conveyances available but most tourists seemed to prefer strolling the top of the wall on foot. The city had long ago outgrown the walls and, as such, the area inside the walls is now known as City Center. I will say that while the walls and gates are lovely with great arching mouths that can accommodate several lanes of traffic each way, I do believe the entire wall system is a bit of a traffic jammer as the only route into or out of the City Center (where the majority of the action of the city is located) is through these gates. It's beautiful and historic, and certainly adds character to the city, but we often found ourselves in completely stopped traffic as a result of these gates being the only routes available for our various destinations.
The next stop was the Big Goose Pagoda which is a very large (and much visited) Buddhist Temple within the City Center area. The pagoda is positioned within the temple grounds along with the other temple buildings each representing an area in which a particular Buddha can be honored and worshipped. I have to say that this is without a doubt the most magnificent of the temples I have visited to date in China. The Buddha areas were beautiful, clean, and ornate, and also large enough to accommodate the bigger crowds that gathered here for worship and meditation. The highlight of this temple (as least for me) was a room that was surrounded on three sides by beautiful carved jade inlaid walls. The varying colors of greens, pinks, reds, yellows, orange, and white were vivid and striking, and the carving was fine, detailed, and proportionate. We took a lot of photos, and I could've stood there all day examining the beautiful ladies, cherubs, Buddhas, and various landscapes that covered the walls of this particular temple area. Magnificent!! Also, the temple area was surrounded by gorgeous and meticulously cared for garden areas which made for a very pleasant sight seeing event. In spite of the rather crowded conditions, we thoroughly enjoyed strolling the Big Goose Pagoda area.
After the Big Goose Pagoda, we were on to the Small Goose Pagoda. This was a less fantastic experience but worthwhile nonetheless. The Small Goose Pagoda is in some disrepair as the edges and top are crumbling. Apparently, this particular pagoda is considered magical due to the fact that some years ago, it was split in half from top to bottom during an earthquake, and then many years later, was reportedly repaired in the same manner. I'm sure this explains the rather disheveled appearance of the pagoda, and I'm a bit skeptical of the earthquake tale (as least the repair part of the tale), but it does make for a good story. The grounds of the Small Goose Pagoda also included some beautiful gardens, statuary, and the peonies were in glorious bloom making for some very fragrant aromas.
After fighting traffic and a few good sized crowds, we were ready for a break and a quick change of clothes in preparation for the evening's activities. We had a reservation for the Tang Dynasty Show and Dumpling Buffet. This experience had come highly recommended so we did not want to miss it. Donna informed us that she had gone to the trouble to ensure our reservation and had managed to acquire very special seats for us. The theater that houses the Tang Dynasty Show is an older Chinese theater but, in my opinion, made for a more authentic experience. The tiered floor area held round tables of 12 on the main floor just in front of the elaborately decorated stage, with the second, slightly raised, level of tables which held 4 or 8 guests. We sat in the front row of the second level directly in front of the center of the stage ..... a perfect view!! Behind us was a balcony of patrons who were there only to view the show but were not partaking of the buffet.
The dumpling buffet consisted of a meal of cold appetizers prior to the serving of 16 different steamed, boiled, and fried dumplings. And we could order as many of the boiled dumplings (the least difficult to prepare) as we wanted. The tables were already laden with the various cold items that we have had with most Chinese meals ... chicken, cucumbers, various cooked chilled greens, and beverages of beer, rice wine, and sodas were offered immediately. Soon the dumplings started arriving to our table, and an elegantly dressed Chinese woman with a very tall headdress came onto the stage to entertain us by plucking a giant Chinese guitar that rested on a stand across her lap. The music was traditional Chinese which perfectly fit the occasion and the musician glanced up demurely and smiled at us periodically.
We ate dumplings filled with corn, celery, chicken, pork, beans, and spinach, and also various combinations of the above. We ate sweet dumplings and savory dumplings, some steamed, some fried, and finally the boiled ones arrived. Dumplings can be eaten with soy, vinegar, or chili oil (or any combination of those). The revue-style show started as the last of the dumplings and the hot pot soup arrived (with teeny-tiny little dumplings for good luck).
The show was emcee'd by a man and a woman dressed in elegant and colorful Chinese finery. The man announced first in strong and animated Mandarin, while the woman followed in calm, dulcet English both commencing and ending their announcements with deep bows. The 10 acts that followed were of various Oriental themes, instrumental pieces of authentic ancient Chinese music with beautiful Chinese landscapes and buildings as set backgrounds with stunning and frequent changes of lighting, as well as lively dances, and Oriental singing. There were gorgeous ballet type dances of Chinese girls with sleeves that were 8 feet long that made beautiful patterns as they twirled and waved their arms in the air. There was a man that made strange and wonderful warbling noises (I honestly do not know if he was whistling or singing but they were definitely some of the most unusual noises I've ever heard made by a human being) almost like a bird twittering and singing. Quite the ham, he made a huge hit with the audience. There was loud drumming and marching of soldiers holding long poles with red lanterns hanging from them. The program was quite delightful and again, we took many photos.
As planned, we arose early Saturday morning for breakfast in order to get ahead of the crowds for our viewing of the Terra Cotta Warriors. The drive to the dig area was almost an hour long, and it was interesting to see another side of Xi'an and the surrounding countryside. We stopped at an area prior to the archaeological digs to visit an area where they make, among other things, various sizes of terra cotta warriors and horses. We were able to view the process (which is basically fill two halves of a mold with clay and put them together, let dry, bake in a kiln, paint), stroll through shelves of the finished products along with other terra cotta figures, Chinese furniture, and artwork. If I were really into Chinese style design (which I'm not although I can certainly appreciate the beauty of it), I could really load up on furniture and artwork. There were some gorgeous pieces at this place. Just outside the entrance were a couple of life size metal warriors with their heads removed so that we could stand behind them and have our photos taken as warriors. Fun!
The dig areas are very well developed open air, covered buildings that have railings all around the outside edges for elevated viewing. Prior to looking at the digs, we opted to watch the 360 degree screen movie highlighting the discovery of the Terra Cotta Warriors, as well as the history of their designer and commissioner, the first Emperor of the Qin Dynasty. It is for his tomb the warriors stand as protectors and sentinels. It was recommended to us that we first view the movie as it explains exactly that which we were about to view next.
The history in a nutshell is this: Emperor QinShiHuang ordered the construction of the tomb and armed terra cotta warriors (along with horses and chariots) about 200 BC in order that his soul be protected from any evil (real or perceived) in the afterlife. It is not exactly known how many of these pits and warriors actually exist. It apparently could be dozens of pits in an area approximately 50 kilometers square but this is as yet has not been determined. A farmer digging a well for water in 1974 discovered terra cotta pieces and bronze fragments which were later determined to have historical significance (apparently at first, they were smashing and discarding them!). The area that is currently being excavated and developed is about 20 hectares which includes 3 ongoing digging sites ... pits 1, 2, & 3. We purchased a picture book which has a lot of pertinent information about the site that was autographed for us by the only living man who discovered the significance of the site.
Well, the only way I can describe the sight of these immense pits lined with row upon row of warriors all facing east is awe inspiring!!! One is hard pressed to imagine the manpower and labor that went into the construction of this, the largest tomb known to man. Unfortunately, most of the warriors, horses, and chariots are in pieces as the tomb fell into enemy hands and was all but destroyed and burned several years after it's completion. They can apparently ascertain by the layer of ash that the combustible parts (wooden spears and wagon wheels) may have smoldered for years. So the process of finding each piece and putting it all back together is very slow and painstaking work making the witnessing of the dig sites all the more impressive. Some of the warriors are pieced together with original pieces, some are all or partially recreated in order to achieve the original appearance.
We spent several hours at the dig site viewing each pit, mostly with our jaws agape with wonder, shooting photo after photo. It is incredible that someone even conceived of this endeavor, but to have actually accomplished it is nothing short of miraculous!! The actual tomb of the emperor is many kilometers to the very western edge of the mausoleum area as all enemy attacks would come from the east (in those days .... better luck to attack from the same direction from whence the sun rises), and we were not able to view the resting place of the emperor.
One interesting fact is that pit number 2 was initially excavated and then re-covered as it has been discovered that exposing the terra cotta pieces to the air causes them to commence deteriorating immediately. As they are still attempting to develop a process for preserving them, it was decided that they would simply cover them back up until such a process is perfected. After all, they know now where they are. It's simply a matter of carefully digging them up again. But the mounds are well marked and distinctive. It seems they are quite organized in their processes of recovery of the terra cotta army.
Well, I have to say that the highlight of our Chinese adventure to date has been the viewing of the Terra Cotta Army of the Qin Dynasty. I have been fascinated by the story since seeing it on TV (National Geographic or Discovery, something like that) and could scarcely take it all in once we were able to view it in person. Simply incredible!!!
We took some time later that day to unwind with a rousing game of Euchre with Larry and Therese, sipped a few drinks, and consumed a mediocre dinner buffet at the hotel. After dinner, it was decided that we still had enough energy to take a walk in the city streets of Xi'an to view the Bell Tower, the Drum Tower, and the Muslim street. The Bell and Drum Towers were impressively lit large Chinese pagodas which could be climbed (we didn't), but photos were taken. More impressive, however, was the brightly lit Muslim street which was jammed with people looking to purchase various street foods and treats, and handmade souvenirs being hawked by the numerous Muslim residents of Xi'an. It was a raucous, Mardi Gras-type atmosphere, and it was hard to not get caught up in the gaiety of it. We were full of our buffet dinner so didn't partake of any of the goodies (although the freshly roasted walnuts, and dried figs and dates DID look appealing) but did get quite a few photos. There is apparently a very large and impressive Muslim mosque in the block adjacent to this street but we did not have the opportunity to view it.
The remainder of our weekend was spent leisurely playing cards or enjoying meals with Larry and Therese who proved to be excellent traveling companions. We arrived back in Shanghai Sunday evening in time for a lovely Thai meal at Simply Thai where they were celebrating Cinco de Mayo by having their favorite items on the menu for 5 rmb (about 80 cents USD) ... so we ate well on the cheap.
No big adventure is forthcoming on the calendar at this time. We will be preparing soon to head over the pond to the US of A for a much needed break and visit with friends and family, as well as attend and honor our youngest children, Kelli and Jake, as they graduate high school. But I promise to check in with any noteworthy items. Until then, tsai chien!
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